Authenticating Antique Jewelry: What To Know Before You Sell or Loan Jewelry

When you’re preparing to sell a piece of antique jewelry or use it as collateral for a loan, the first step is always to determine whether your piece is real. While you may think, “Of course it’s real!” the truth is that estate jewelry that has been passed down can sometimes have unexpected origins. 

We’ve seen many buyers left shocked at an appraisal when they find out their treasured heirloom isn’t worth what they thought it would be, so we always advise authenticating antique jewelry before you try to sell or loan it. If you aren’t sure where to start, here are three indicators that can help confirm your piece’s authenticity and value.

Hallmarks

Hallmarks are marks stamped on metal jewelry to certify its purity. They help not only authenticate an item, but also sometimes identify its maker, age, and country of origin. Most antique jewelry will have purity marks such as 10K, 14K, 18K, 22K, 585, PT950, or 900. These indicate the gold, sterling silver, or platinum content in the jewelry.

European and British pieces may also have hallmarks that indicate where and when the item was made. For example, a leopard head indicates that a piece of jewelry was made in London, while an anchor indicates Birmingham. A date letter can pinpoint the production year. Maker’s marks can tie a piece of jewelry to a specific workshop or designer, which can significantly elevate your piece’s value.

While hallmarks indicate a lot about the authenticity and value of a piece, the absence of a hallmark doesn’t necessarily mean that the item is inauthentic. Sizing and repairs can remove or distort original stamps, which is why it’s important to have your antique jewelry authenticated by a professional who can perform chemical metal testing.

Craftsmanship

You can also gauge authenticity based on how a piece was made. Hand techniques and period-correct construction are hard to fake convincingly. Georgian and early Victorian jewelry often features closed-back or foil-backed settings and hand-cut diamonds, for example, while Art Deco pieces favor geometric symmetry and calibre-cut colored stones.

Machine-made jewelry is fairly recent in the grand scheme of antique jewelry, so there are certain indicators of modern production that can reveal your piece as inauthentic. Modern reproductions typically have casting pits, overly uniform details, and CAD-smooth interiors. If you have antique jewelry that has the design details of a Victorian piece with modern machine cuts and newly applied hallmarks, this can be a major red flag. Period-consistent craftsmanship goes a long way toward verifying authenticity and can raise both resale and collateral loan values.

Patina

Patina is a natural change in the surface of a metal material over time. It typically results from oxidation, chemical reactions, or general wear and tear. Authentic patina is a sign of a piece’s age and can help support its authenticity.

Bright, freshly polished metal can suggest recent restoration, which isn’t always negative, but it may affect your piece’s originality and resale value. Before selling your antique jewelry, always disclose components replaced with modern parts, such as new clasps or altered settings, and avoid aggressive cleaning. Over-polishing can erase the piece’s natural patina and even disturb hallmarks and other clues experts need to verify your piece’s authenticity. A gentle wipe and dust removal is usually all you need to do before your appraisal appointment.

If you’re ready to sell or loan your estate jewelry for cash, make sure you choose the best place to buy and sell gold and jewelry in Orange County — Watch & Wares. Orange County residents know that when they visit Watch & Wares, they’re receiving a fair and competitive appraisal offer that directly reflects market prices. In fact, our offers are consistently some of the highest in the area, thanks to our team of experienced jewelry experts and certified gemologists. If you are searching for the best place to sell gold jewelry near you, contact Watch & Wares online or give us a call at 714-633-2030 today.